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Octadecenedioic acid, potent nature-derived skin care product made via biofermentation from oleic acid, which has shown efficacy in the skin care industry. It is used most especially in applications, including skin toning, and skin lightening formulations.
Octadecenedioic acid is derived from sunflower seeds and is very similar to Azeliac acid in its molecular structure. The key to this product is its ability to lighten the skin, fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation. A recent study was carried out in which over 70 women over 12 weeks claimed it reduced hyperpigmentation to a great degree. Another study compared twice-daily application of 1% dioic acid to 2% hydroquinone cream in 96 Mexican female subjects with melasma. Both agents demonstrated equal efficacy in reducing melasma by over 40% after 12 weeks of treatment. However, dioic doesn’t have the controversial associations with carcinogencity that hydroquinone does.
Mechanism of action
Unlike most other skin lighteners, octadecenedioic does not function by inhibiting tyrosinase activity but acts by binding to peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR). As a result, it can promote differentiation of keratinocytes, the primary cells in the epidermis.
Octadecenedioic acid is known to be 50-fold more active than azelaic acid at inhibiting the growth of propionibacterium acne.