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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

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Description

INCI :Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (also tetra-isopalmitoylascorbate, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) is a molecule derived from vitamin C. It is produced by combining one molecule of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) with four molecules oftetraisopalmitic acid, a fatty acid found in butter and other sources.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an ester of VitamIn C that doesn’t oxidize. It has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure.An umber of Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as lighten and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.

Stability: Its one of the most expensive variants of stable vitamin C but less expensive in formulations because it is effective in lower concentrations than traditional Vitamin C. It has also been found to be gentler and work in some people who are resistant to ascorbic acid

Benefits

  • It is the most potent form of vitamin C. Because of its oil solubility it reaches the dermis.
  • Sun damage protection
  • At 0.1% reduces melanin synthesis by 80%
  • At 10% eliminated age spots in 16 weeks
  • At 3% in vivo reduces Delta-L value by 15% vs. placebo (22 people), a way to measure whitening effect
  • At 0.1% in vitro increases collagen by 50%
  • Tested at 10% in vivo to treat acne with 80% of patients (12 people) satisfied with results
  • Increases collagen synthesis at least twice as much as ascorbic acid
  • Inhibits MMP-2 and MMP-9 over time better than ascorbic acid
  • decreased 80-OHdG induced by UV-A
  • decreased p53 expression induced by UV-B
  • Protects the cells against UV-B better than other esters of Vitamin C
  • Works synergistically with Thiotaine as both penetrate the cells for anti-oxidant activity
  • It highly moisturises and hydrates the skin.
  • Vitamin C has a low release uptake by the skin, but with Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, more than 80 % of the vitamin C content is released successfully. An additional benefit of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is that it is soluble in lipids, such as oils, and thus its uptake through the skin is easier. The pH of this derivative (around 4.0-6.0) is also more compatible with skin than that of pure ascorbic acid

Formulation Guidelines

  • Should be added into the oil phase of formulations at temperatures below 80°C (176°F)
  • Can be used in formulas with a pH range of 3 to 6.
  • Typical Usage: 0.5-3%, can be used up to 10%
  • Storage: Store in a cool dry place, avoid freezing
  • Solubility: Oil Soluble
  • For external use only. Do not apply directly to skin.
  • Applications: Lotions, gels, creams, sun care & after sun products, makeup, lip products.

 

Product/Formulation Specifications

  • CAS# :183476-82-6
  • INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
  • Appearance: White to off white powder
  • Solubility:Excellent solubility in carrier oils, mineral oils, ethanol, silicone. Insoluble in water, propylene glycol, glycerin.
  • Stability: Best at pH 5.5

Note: All our products are sold for cosmetic use only – not to be ingested.

 

 

 

 

 

 

INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

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