Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an ester of and Vitamin C
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an ester of and VitamIn C that doesn’t oxidize. It has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.
Stability: Its one of the most expensive variants of stable vitamin C but less expensive in formulations because it is effective in lower concentrations than traditional Vitamin C. It has also been found to be gentler and work in some people who are resistant to ascorbic acid
- At 0.1% reduces melanin synthesis by 80%
- At 10% eliminated age spots in 16 weeks
- At 3% in vivo reduces Delta-L value by 15% vs. placebo (22 people), a way to measure whitening effect
- At 0.1% in vitro increases collagen by 50%
- Tested at 10% in vivo to treat acne with 80% of patients (12 people) satisfied with results
- Increases collagen synthesis at least twice as much as ascorbic acid
- Inhibits MMP-2 and MMP-9 over time better than ascorbic acid
- decreased 80-OHdG induced by UV-A
- decreased p53 expression induced by UV-B
- Protects the cells against UV-B better than other esters of Vitamin C
- Works synergistically with Thiotaine as both penetrate the cells for anti-oxidant activity
- Should be added into the oil phase of formulations at temperatures below 80°C (176°F)
- Can be used in formulas with a pH range of 3 to 6.
- Typical Usage: 0.5-3%, can be used up to 10%
- Storage: Store in a cool dry place, avoid freezing
- Solubility: Oil Soluble
- For external use only. Do not apply directly to skin.
- Applications: Lotions, gels, creams, sun care & after sun products, makeup, lip products.
- CAS# :183476-82-6
- INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
- Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid
- Suggested percentage: .5% to 7%
- Solubility:Excellent solubility in carrier oils, mineral oils, ethanol, silicone. Insoluble in water, propylene glycol, glycerin.
- Stability: Best at pH 5.5
Note: All our products are sold for cosmetic use only – not to be ingested.
INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate